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THE NOVICES SOCIAL CIRCLE (part three).

Have you done your homework and read the books?

Are you sitting comfortably? Then I will begin!

Now that you have separated the birds into sections, old cocks - young hens; old hens - young cocks to the best of your ability and don't worry if your judgement is slightly out, it won't make any difference to the system. Several things will happen

(1) the majority of old birds will bond very strongly with the single young bird and box.
(2) the youngster will be feeding itself from the pots and guarding the box entrance proudly with its parent.
(3) the cock birds without youngsters will either (1a) become very jealous and possessive of its box; or (2a) make a nuisance of itself in other boxes.
The latter is not a bad thing, because this bird is an ideal candidate for the "Meat Safe System" which I shall explain later. Two or three pigeons on this system can prove to be devastating in races up to 200 miles. Within the hen - young cock section things will also happen
(1) The hen and youngster will also become extremely possessive of both box and each other so much so, even when reintroduced to old cock birds they will chase him from the box.
(2) they will show no inclination to pair to other hens, but become doting mothers, sitting and preening the youngster constantly.
Alternatively the celibate hen or hens will either (1a) attempt to attract a youngster to their box, (2a) strut and coo to all and sundry including the fancier and may be teased with affection on his part or -- (3a) they may be reintroduced to a cock upon basketing night and -- (4a) they may pair to another hen and be raced for several weeks sitting infertile eggs; these may also be motivated by the "Meat Safe System" for hens; once again explained later.
Now the greatest problem for novice fanciers is getting their pigeons to exercise for one hour at each session and I have often had it said that fifteen minutes is the maximum without basket work. This of course is a myth; pigeons will fly at speed for one hour around home provided that the fancier feeds and mentally conditions them accordingly. Racing pigeons are creatures of habit; whatever is instilled into them, good or bad, then so they will perform! I do not believe in flagging; but having said that some form of flag flying is required initially to provide the correct reaction from the birds. Construct a simple flag from a six foot garden cane and a plastic dustbin liner, this is not to wave about like a demented lunatic, but simply a signal of your control. The pigeons are released for a fly and left to do so at leisure until they display signs of landing. At this point the loft doors should remain closed; the flag is simply and slowly waved in front of the flock. They will circle the loft a couple of times, attempting to defy you, but then they will race off out of sight and return racing back from a different direction after several minutes. This course of action is repeated until the hour is completed; put down the flag and open the loft doors. The birds will dive into the cabin before you can clear out of the way, spinning and cooing and looking for feed which they must receive forthwith in their boxes! Within one week of this imprinting, the pigeons will measure the hour to the second and the flag should not be needed again until later in the season.
In highly built up areas, sometimes the birds might land upon a neighbouring roof top. In this instance the flag is not used immediately; allow the pigeons to come down onto the loft for a few minutes, then gently raise the flag in front of them and up they go for several minutes more and repeat until one hours flying time has been achieved. This is not a scaring tactic but it is an educational imprinting aid. Should the birds go back to the roof then take a handkerchief with a small stone knotted into one corner, throw this into the air allowing it to parachute down. The white tail of the handkerchief gently fluttering down is usually sufficient to get them airborne and off your neighbours roof. Simple but effective without creating nervous birds or annoying your neighbours.
Does this work? Yes it does if you put in the effort; alternatively use a wet cloth inside a carrier bag. A few years ago I went to a fanciers loft where he insisted that pigeons wouldn't fly for more than fifteen minutes, he challenged me to prove him wrong. Within one week his birds were flying for one hour twice daily for the whole season, racing only three pigeons weekly in a competitive Wednesday club, that fancier won his first prizes in twenty years of trying; one of which was first. Now that is nothing spectacular apart from the fact that both he and his fellow competitors considered his pigeons to be rubbish! To save him embarrassment I shan't name him, but he didn't have problems afterwards! so what do we do with the youngster's at this stage when all the books advise weaning into a separate section?
There are several facts with young birds (1) they don't need to be in a separate section. (2) Youngsters have carry over immunity to illness from their parents until approximately six weeks of age; the period is extended by remaining in the same loft. (3) due to reduced stress caused by weaning, they are less likely to succumb to illness, learning to eat and drink by parental observation and are generally happier and precocious. This is borne out by the fact that they quickly commence to defend the family home as you will observe. Now remember this information is for the long term novice, that hasn't won so far, either on widowhood or natural. It is a learning process, intended to hone his powers of observation and skill before progressing to full blown power systems. Limited accommodation calls for quality in both the fancier and his birds, but often the quality is there to begin with, he just hasn't recognised the fact!
The youngsters must have sight of the loft and surroundings at the earliest opportunity, they must also be conditioned in response to your management. To this end they may be placed in a clean straw filled basket in front of the loft whilst the old birds are exercising. A drinker must be available at all times and this is filled whilst the squeakers are safely settled inside. The gentle splashing will soon attract them and through natural inquisitiveness they learn to drink from the trough. As the old birds are trapping, the youngsters are released in the loft doorway and replaced in the respective boxes to feed with their parent. This is no more work than carrying widowhood hens to and fro, in fact it is less and the youngsters soon learn the routine. As they become stronger, they may be allowed onto the loft front, by which time the old birds will be exercising freely without flagging. Eventually the youngsters will be airborne and flying with the kit, which has the dual effect of keeping the old birds in flight. They do not get carried off too far, because the parent spins and dives with them, bringing them back into the flock and appearing totally happy. At this time racing should be underway for old birds; they must be well fed at all times, mornings approximately ¬1/2 oz of feed per bird; evenings they receive as much as they can eat, removing the food pots after 5 minutes until the 120 miles stage is reached. After this time the pots are not removed until 1 hour later.
On race marking day, the birds only receive the morning feed, but are given « oz per bird allowed to drink and then the shutters are pulled down until basketing time. Monday till Thursday the feeding is widowhood mixture in the morning, strong race mixture in the evening. Friday they receive widowhood mixture plus a little seed and peanuts. Saturday post racing, feed widowhood mixture and add pure honey (2 tablespoons) to the drinker. When returning from the clubhouse allow the pigeons open hole all birds together and let them have a playful and relaxing bath. Feed in and separate once again into respective sections giving 1 oz per bird. If your loft is cat proof, you may allow open hole after timing arrivals but exercise caution. Spend as much time as you possibly can with them whilst they enjoy their freedom from routine and note any that are stressed or coming into form or acting with individual personalities (this should be done at every exercise period). The birds can be exercised twice daily until the 200 miles stage, but after this they will be less inclined to fly on Sundays, so at this point allow freedom with the loft doors shut until they show signs of wishing to enter.
Monday 'til Thursday it might be necessary to reintroduce the flag and coerce them gently, but usually the rest is sufficient and the youngsters will keep them airborne! Do not reintroduce the training basket, tired birds will only be made more tired, it is better to give longer loft confinement until Monday. Once fully recuperated the birds will fly with zest! By now you should have seen just how motivated pigeons are when racing to the box and loving youngster, but there are ways to increase this motivation to even greater effect. In the next chapter I shall explain the "Meat Safe System", which is particularly effective with celibate or nuisance pigeons. These can be motivated beyond belief with a little work and yet far simpler than widowhood. It is a system that can be used to effect on natural pigeons, widowers, roundabout and celibate birds, but must not be overused on any individual for more than three races.
Until the next article, do as you are told son, we're going for the big climb and rewriting the record book or my name isn't Josephine! Keep your bowels open and your brain active - read up on your subject!

The Novices SocialCircle

HomingWorld.net

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